Dive Against Debris at the Port Aransas Jetties

When shore diving in the Corpus Christi, Texas area, you will encounter dead or dying fish, turtles and other marine animals at local jetties. Bring multiple cutting tools and help animals if it safe to do so. Report the trapped animals and spread the word so that others will know the impact of ghost fishing gear. Learn to dive against debris.



FMI https://transformationscuba.com/dive-against-debris

Advanced Open Water Diver Certification at Stetson Bank, Gulf of Mexico,...

Open water certification was never intended to be the last scuba course you take. Strangely some folks stop at open water, resulting in poor dive skills and lack of confidence. To make scuba training more accessible and fun, it is broken up into 3 main chunks. Open water, advanced open water, and rescue diver. Usually enriched air nitrox is thrown in to extend bottom time. Non-medical professionals often need first aid and emergency oxygen provider when completing rescue diver. When you take your advanced course, it is simply a matter of doing five more dives with an instructor, reading the corresponding book chapters and answering some review questions. It is all about gaining experience and confidence. A good course will include a deep dive, navigation dive,  night dive, boat dive, and another dive of interest. Maybe you did open water dives in a lake and have no boat or ocean experience or maybe you want to experience drift diving. Maybe you want to learn why your underwater digital images look dark and blah while your instructor's videos look amazing. Take the underwater digital photography. maybe you want to start identifying reef inhabitants so you opt to take underwater naturalist. Choose the dives for your course that will enhance your skills. If your budget allows, choose an advanced course that will truly advance your skills and expose you to new environments and techniques. Don't stop at basic! Gain more confidence and skills. Most importantly, aim to achieve at least the rescue diver level of training so you can help yourself and others in the event of a problem. Above all have fun and go diving to keep your skills fresh!

Behind the scenes of your open water scuba course

New scuba students sometimes balk at the price of scuba lessons. Perhaps this is because they don't yet realize the expenses involved in running a dive business and the hard work of providing an open water scuba course.

The most costly item is a scuba compressor. Students are often shocked to find out that compressing a  closet full of air at 14.7 pounds per square inch into a tiny cylinder at a pressure of 3000 pounds per square inch, requires a multi-stage compressor and accessories costing as much as a family car!

Maintenance of the compressor is costly as well. Special breathing air filters costing hundreds of dollars must be replaced regularly to keep you safe. Air must be collected and sent to a lab for detailed analysis to ensure safety.

Gear must be washed after every dive and regulators sanitized which is wet messy work. Gear must be serviced annually, tanks hydrostatic tested every five years and visually inspected annually.

Liability insurance is extremely costly. Certification agency annual dues, class materials and certification fees are a significant portion of your class tuition.

Travel costs, pool fees, it all adds up.

If you think your scuba course is costly- please think again. 

Chances are your instructor truly loves to introduce students to the underwater world and is working very hard for very little, sometimes zero money.

The Save-A-Dive Kit

 The Save-A-Dive Kit

A save-a-dive kit is just a collection of tools, spare parts and other supplies that prevent you or your buddy from traveling all the way to the dive site and not being able to dive because of broken or missing part/s.  Scuba diving is a gear intensive sport. Something as simple as a missing tank valve o-ring can prevent you from diving after a long boat ride. A save-a-dive kit can save you hundreds of dollars in travel expenses. So what do you put in it? Items in a save-a-dive kit can range from a few spare tank valve o-rings all the way to the hundreds of parts and tools along with a complete spare scuba system carried by your scuba instructor during training sessions. Instructors would literally go broke if we had to cancel a training session every time an o-ring blew, or a dry rotted fin strap broke, or a mask cracked. Here is a list of potential items. Every save-a-dive kit is different depending on the gear you have and your skill level with repairs. Never attempt a repair you are not qualified to do. Some suggestions below are intended for divers with advanced repair skills or for use with assistance of a qualified professional. Get a quality Pelican Dry box to hold your stuff and prevent it from corroding. Throw some spare desiccants from a shoe box inside to keep things dry. Ask your instructor what they have in their kit and for help purchasing the right stuff.  Avoid pre-made generic kits. These are usually poor quality and often won't fit the equipment you have.

Full Redundant Scuba System

The fastest and easiest way to handle problems is to have a complete spare system including personal gear. If a mask gets broken, just put on your spare and keep going. If a regulator acts up, switch to a spare. Not everybody has this luxury, but on long expensive remote expeditions this is a must.

 

Spare Parts

Fin Straps- get the right kind for your fins, see instructor.

Mask Strap- not all are the same size, see instructor.

Mouthpiece- correct size.

Zip Ties- Lots of these, I buy them by the hundreds!

Fin Strap Buckle- These break too.

Watch Band

Tank Cam Strap

Snorkel Keeper- simple figure 8 can save the day.

Spare Batteries for computer, lights, cameras, marker lights, AI transmitter etc.- Critical item!!

Weight Belt Buckle

Stainless Bolt Snaps

Stainless Swivel Bolt Snaps

Stainless Quick Links

Stainless Steel Split Rings

Wrist Lanyards

Coil Lanyard so you don’t drop your GoPro or light

#24 Cave Line and Lighter or butane torch- to attach swivels to your gear, such as SPG.

Fastex Buckles

LP Hose

HP Hose and Spare Spool

Spare BCD Corrugated Hose

Spare BCD Inflator Mechanism

Spare BCD Dump Valve

Tank Valve Parts

Spare Tank Valve Burst Disk Assembly

Octo Holder

Triglides- Stainless or plastic webbing buckles

Regulator Service Kits

Regulator Specialty Repair Tools

O-rings

Tank O-rings- See instructor for sizes. Choose oxygen compatible Viton.

Hose End O-rings

Dive Light O-rings

Camera O-rings

HP Spool O-rings

Tools

Scuba Multi-tool- equivalent individual tools are often better especially for pros!

Mini-tank Valve Tool- This mini tool is a must.

Swiss Army Knife or Leatherman- Stainless steel and a lot of tools in a small package.

Utility Knife

Butane Torch or Lighter- Use constantly for sealing ends of cave line, etc.

LP Air Gun- Fill dive and swim floats easily from you LP inflator!

LP Tire Inflator- Fill inner dive tube floats and car tires in an emergency!

IP Gauge- Easily check a first stage for proper intermediate pressure.

Hex Wrenches SAE and Metric- Critical for changing hose configuration.

Adjustable Wrenches Slip-Joint Pliers- When all else fails.

Wire cutter for zip ties- Critical item.

Products

Dessicants

Silicone Lube- For dive lights, etc. Not Oxygen Compatible Not for use on regulators and tanks.

Oxygen Compatible Lube- Can be used on regulators and tank valves (expensive).

Mask Conditioner- Conditions new masks.

Magic Eraser- Cleans Slates

Wetsuit Repair Adhesive- Aquaseal

Mask Defog- Critical item.

Zipper Glide

BCD and Wetsuit Wash- Antibacterial wash keeps everything smelling good and clean.

Other

Sharpie Marker

Paint Marker

DIN to Yoke Converter

DIN to Yoke Valve Inserts

Port Plugs

Marker Lights

Spare Computer or Watch and Tables

Duct Tape- When all else fails.

Spare Weights

Pencil

Wet Notes

Towel

Wipes

Surgical Tubing

Pelican Case- Large enough to hold all your stuff.

Marine First Aid Kit- You will learn about this in the PADI Rescue Diver Course

DAN Oxygen Kit- You will learn about this in the PADI Emergency Oxygen Provider Course

What items do you keep in your save-a-dive kit or use most often?

Avoiding Jaw Fatigue While Scuba Diving

A basic scuba mouthpiece.

Some people during training complain about jaw fatigue, so I wanted to address it.

First, check the mouthpiece carefully for damage. Often divers bite through the bite tabs making it very hard to hold in the mouth. Check that the bite tabs are not partially or completely bitten through or perhaps ripped off entirely! If there is damage, replace the mouthpiece. Always carry extras along with zip ties in your save a dive kit!

In my experience jaw fatigue is most often simply because the diver is new and clinches the mouthpiece too tightly. If this is the case, keep practicing regulator recovery with an instructor until you are not fearful. With experience this issue may disappear after you have many dives under your weight belt.

Another reason for this problem could be hoses that are too short or too stiff. I prefer braided flex hoses to stiff rubber hoses because they are more flexible and you experience less "hose pull". They are also lighter in weight and pack more easily for travel. Flex hoses are perhaps slightly less durable so expect to replace them a little more often.

Some divers feel that a ball swivel next to the second stage can be more comfortable. Some regulators come with these already attached or it can be added. Similarly, some divers prefer a first stage with a swivel turret, which can make diving more comfortable when moving the head from side to side. Turret first stages may also offer better hose routing and  can be more comfortable as the hoses make a more natural arc. Consider a slightly longer flex hose if you still have problems with comfort. Remember that every time you add a moving component, you add complexity and a possible failure point!

Another issue causing jaw fatigue could be the second stage itself. Some really high end second stages are heavy. Size and weight of the second stage could be a factor. I once sold an incredibly nice all chrome second stage that was very expensive and a "prestigious" brand, because it felt like a ten pound lead weight in my mouth. Sometimes manufacturers give in to fads or trends and create something just for looks that really is not practical. Modern second stages are made of thermoplastic, because it is light corrosion resistant and durable.

If none of these things seem to help, then consider changing the mouthpiece. It is a simple process to clip the old mouthpiece zip tie and replace the mouthpiece with a new, proper fitting one of a different style using a new zip tie. Some people swear by the "Aqualung" style, others have a different preference. Try different ones, long tabs, short tabs, etc. until you find one you like.

If you still can't get comfortable, then perhaps a custom moldable mouthpiece is the key. These are placed in boiling water for a short time, then placed in the mouth (according to manufacturers instructions for safety) and then the diver bites down gently to mold the mouthpiece to her/his own teeth. Once this is done properly the mouthpiece will "stick" to your teeth which may reduce jaw fatigue. These can be a bit of a hassle to get just right and you may mess one up, so buy two. They also can be costly and seem to easily get damaged by heat, so keep them cool. They also look kind of creepy once molded to your bite and if you practice an air sharing technique that requires you to donate your own regulator to the out of air diver these won't fit the diver you are donating to. The diver will still be able to breathe from it, of course. This may slightly complicate an out of air emergency. For these reasons, I would use the moldable custom mouthpiece as a last resort.

See me or other dive professional to order a custom moldable mouthpiece.

What do you do to avoid jaw fatigue?

Diving With Long Hair

Divers with long hair often ask me what to do about their hair while taking the open water scuba class. The open water class requires taking your mask off numerous times with wet, tangly hair sticking to the mask strap and getting caught in the strap and snorkel keeper.

In the past, I would just "mansplain" to them that they should cut it all off, but that didn't go over too well for some reason... So as a short haired male dive instructor I had to change my approach. So I watched my divers, asked questions, and did some research.

Here are the tips we came up with aside from cutting it all off:

Gear-

First of all, use a neoprene mask strap cover. I suggest and sell for a nominal fee, the kind that go over your existing silicone mask strap. These slide over twisted hair much more easily and don't stick to wet hair like glue. There are other types (slap straps), but these have straps with plastic buckles or Velcro which are real hassle to adjust. Divers, especially new ones, need to have the well designed quick release buckles of the original mask strap, so it can be easily loosened or tightened with just two fingers.

Just remember if you get a neoprene mask strap cover, always check that the mask strap doesn't come off when doing a giant stride or seated backroll entry. Just check it as you give your OK sign after the entry. For short-haired folks I do not suggest a neoprene cover unless you are a divemaster or instructor who takes the mask on and off very frequently for demonstrations. The silicone strap is actually more secure.

Another option, especially if it is going to be cold where you dive, is to wear a dive hood. This solves the problem entirely, but won't work in the tropics.

Sometimes, I see ladies with biker-style doo rags, but really? The only time I suggest these is for bald folks in the tropics that won't use sun screen for fear of harming coral. Otherwise, these are not the best fashion statement in my humble opinion, but the fish don't judge. 

Hair Style- 

I have seen all sorts of hair style. Some prefer a single ponytail or topknot, but just remember the mask strap goes on the widest part of the back of your head, so be sure the ponytail/s don't interfere with the strap.  Others find a French braid or two side braids work better for them. Do me and other instructors a favor and try this in a pool before your scuba class! We don't do underwater hair styling lessons... and your fellow students don't want to wait for you to fix your floating hair.

Hair Care-

Be sure to protect your hair and the environment by using good, biodegradable, reef safe moisturizing shampoo, conditioner and/ or leave-in conditioner to prevent your hair from drying out with all the chlorine and salt. Rinse, wash, and condition your hair quickly after you dive. I recommend and sell Gnarly Head ™ aquatic hair care products. 

If you have other tips, I would love to learn more so I can pass it on to my long haired students. Please share your tips in the comments.

Say No to the BFK- The Big Freaking Leg Knife.

When I was a little boy, I would sneak into my dad's sporting goods closet. Dad, was recently discharged from two tours in the Vietnam War and he loved collecting manly things. Dad was like James Bond and the closet was like Agent Q's secret lab. Seriously, it had enough weapons, explosives (long gone), rations, and cool stuff to guard against numerous zombie apocalypses, even an Indiana Jones style bullwhip, which Dad would pull out and crack on occasion! Like all early 1970's Man Cave closets, it had a set of scuba gear for underwater zombies. I remember staring at that old double hose regulator and tank all set up and ready to go in the event of an underwater zombie attack. Most of all, I remember the gigantic knife pictured above, one of the few surviving objects from this bygone era. It even outlasted Dad, who thought Marlboros were good for the lungs, but I digress...

Now the knife is a collector's item of sorts and a reminder to my students that these BFK giant leg knives are no longer used and certainly never strapped to your leg!

Nothing says newbie diver more than a BFK attached to your leg! Don't do it!

But why is the once revered BFK leg knife now frowned upon in scuba diving circles (except vintage dive gear fans)?

Well first of all we now realize that we don't need a giant knife to fight zombies or zombie sharks or to cut the hoses of imaginary Bond villains. Alas, scuba diving is pretty tame stuff. What we really need is a razor sharp knife that can cut through fishing line like butter.

The problems with the BFK leg knife are many. It adds well over a pound to your kit! Imagine adding a pound and a half to only one of your legs! No wonder those guys swim so funny in Sea Hunt.

The typical BFK is 1/4 inch thick and therefore hard to put a sharp edge on, so it is more of a tank banger really. A darn good one in fact!

The leg sheath, its buckles and the big honking knife handle are all monofilament fishing line magnets and a serious entanglement hazard. Never put a gigantic, heavy, entanglement hazard on your leg.

In an emergency when trying to drop a weight belt in a vertical position there is a good chance the belt will become trapped between the knife handle and divers leg and lead to further panic and possible death.

Aside from safety issues, there are practical issues, like it takes forever to attach a big knife to your leg.

But, most of all you just don't want to look like Mike Nelson from Sea Hunt.

What do you do instead?

Get a reasonably sized (small) knife with a well designed one hand only quick release sheath and attach it to your BCD such that it can be easily reached with either hand. In addition get a line cutter such as Eezycut Trilobyte and also attach it to your BCD so it can be easily reached and accessed with one hand.

If using high grade stainless cutting tools, always put a thin coat of silicone grease on them to prevent rust and remove them from the sheath to air dry after diving.

Move into the modern era and ditch the BFK on your leg! You will be glad you did.